4 triangular seitan vegan steaks on a griddle plate

Recipe Review: Vegan Steak

I loathe tchotchkes. Rather, my favorite souvenir is inspiration – especially from restaurants. Thus, after dining at Monster Vegan in Philadelphia, I was determined to make a “cheesesteak” at least as delicious!

A good “steak” became critical. I’d previously made vegan brisket, but was it good enough? Only by testing other recipes would I know for sure…

The Vegan Steak Contenders

Judging mostly by images, I carefully selected four recipes:

The Gentle Chef

three approximately fist-sized uncut steak medallions from The Gentle Chef's recipe
a single steak medallion from The Gentle Chef's recipe with a couple forkfuls removed to show texture

Pros

Nothing looks as believable as a recipe from The Gentle Chef (Skye Michael Conroy), and his “Gentle Steak Medallions” in Cooking with The Gentle Chef are no exception.

Chef Skye’s formula especially excels at structural integrity thanks to a wrapping and steaming step no other writer bothers to do. His steaks are resultingly beautiful, browned, and beefy.

Cons

I’m not sure how I failed to create the muscle-like striations in The Gentle Chef’s pictures; I used all the required equipment, adhered to his recommendations, measured with a food scale, and meticulously followed every instruction.

The uniformly supple texture I produced, in conjunction with the 1/4 cup (60 mL/g) tamari he calls for, translated into a salty main more suggestive of a hot dog than a steak.

Romy London

meat analog mixture in food processor following Romy London's recipe
vegan steak with three slices cut and spread to show texture; Romy London's recipe

Pros

If I were only judging by flavor, “Vegan Steak (Seitan Recipe)” by Romy London would be my champion recipe. The vegan-friendly ale and instant coffee in particular added bitter notes uncannily similar to a perfectly charred steak.

Furthermore, as I concluded London’s recipe with pan-frying, the peppery mustard coating and savory dough ingredients synergized into an aroma that transported me to an Irish pub.

The whole experience, in fact, was transcendent. I’d never made seitan following the wash the flour (seriously abbreviated WTF) method. Initially intimidated, I was ultimately energized by London’s remarkably clear instructions.

Cons

Time and texture were serious cons. This recipe takes two days! An overnight rest after adding a flavor paste and another after pan searing limit how frequently one can plan this recipe – if they can plan it at all.

And after 48 hours of toiling on and off, I had a disappointingly dense dinner.

Health My Lifestyle

dirty braising pan completely devoid of liquid
uncut triangular vegan steaks from Health My Lifestyle's recipe
partially sliced vegan steak from Health My Lifestyle's recipe showing texture

Pros

“The BEST Vegan Steak (Perfectly Tender!)” by Rachel Lessenden of Health My Lifestyle is a thoughtful and obviously well-tested recipe. I especially adore her use of kidney beans for color.

I was also pleasantly surprised by the absolutely perfect amount of braising liquid. I had my doubts about four steaks absorbing 1 1/4 cups (300 mL/g) broth while covered over medium heat for 20 minutes, but they did! A drop more or less would’ve been wrong.

Overall, this no-oil recipe is just as flavorful as it is approachable. The Italian seasoning and balsamic vinegar are unique and effective inclusions respectively rounding out the final product with earthy and citrusy notes.

Cons

Unfortunately, the kidney beans contributed flecks of red skin. They weren’t incredibly unsightly, but they were peculiar enough for my diners to pause and inquire, “What’s that?” before taking a bite.

Additionally, braising made these steaks practically too tender. They were juicy, but so much so that they didn’t char per Lessenden’s instructions.

Thank You Berry Much

triangular vegan steaks on a griddle; recipe by Emily Wise of Thank You Berry Much
singular vegan steak from Emily Wise of Thank You Berry Much with two thick slices cut from one side

Pros

By the time I cut into the crusty exterior, I was completely in love with “Vegan Steak with Garlic Butter” by Emily Wise of Thank You Berry Much. Yet while its chew was the best part, its robust flavor was almost as astounding. Umami, pepper, and smoke were abundant and balanced!

I’m also partial to the vital wheat gluten method for making seitan. In more ways than one, mixing wet into dry ingredients for a meat analog is a “wise” decision. I personally find this technique not only more accessible, but also equally effective.

Cons

One minor critique is that the crust bordered on tough. To be sure, I scrupulously follow recipes when I test them, and use an oven thermometer to boot. I honestly think baking uncovered at 425°F/220°C for 28 minutes with little more than 3 Tbsp (45 mL/g) of liquid created a slightly more toothsome exterior than I would’ve preferred.

Lastly, I chose this recipe in part because of the grill lines in Wise’s featured image. Yet when I attempted to char my own steaks on medium per her instructions, no such lines appeared.

Which one is best for a vegan cheesesteak?

I’d repeat Emily Wise’s (Thank You Berry Much‘s) recipe before any other recipe herein. Even before hers, however, I’d use mine!

I developed my Flank-Style Vegan Steak using everything I learned from this post. Starting with the more attainable vital wheat gluten method, I call for a modest increase in braising liquid and decrease in oven temperature. I also employ some umami and color hacks I surprisingly hadn’t encountered such as soaked and blended sun-dried tomatoes and molasses.

The result is a tender, richly flavored and colored steak with a crust that can be thinly sliced. Combine it with the following recipes for a casual “cheesesteak” or elegant vegan French dip!